Before they're pants, they're a few shapes lying on a table. That's one of the satisfying parts of sewing a small garment: you can follow how the seams bring it together, then watch the elastic gather the top into something that suddenly looks ready to wear.
If this is your first pair, begin with one beginner pattern and read its instructions all the way through. The pattern supplies the exact pieces, seam allowances, elastic length and construction order. This walkthrough is here to make those stages feel more familiar before you start.
Get to know the pieces before cutting
Choose the size from the pattern maker's chart. Check whether the seam allowances are already included and what kind of fabric the pattern calls for. Prepare your cloth according to its care requirements before cutting.
Lay the pieces out using the grainline and cutting diagram. With a directional print, take an extra moment to see which way the pictures will face on the finished legs. Transfer the notches and any pocket or waistband marks using the recommended method. They may seem like little details on the table; later, they help you find where things meet.
Follow one construction sequence
Identify the fronts and backs, then match the edges and marks specified in your instructions. Keep the seam allowance consistent and finish the raw edges with a method suited to the fabric and equipment.
Some pants are assembled leg by leg before joining the crotch seam. Other patterns use a different order. It is easier to stay with one complete set of instructions than borrow a step from a video using another pattern. Press as directed along the way; the next seam is easier to line up when the previous one is sitting neatly.
The elastic lives in a channel
That channel is called a casing. Depending on the pattern, you may fold down the top edge of the pants or attach a separate waistband. The channel needs room for the specified elastic, with an opening left so you can thread it through.
Keep hold of both ends as you feed the elastic around. Before joining them, feel along the casing to make sure nothing has twisted. Join the ends as instructed, close the opening and spread the gathers around the waist. The Sewing & Craft Alliance's waistband casing guide illustrates the general method.
Hems, then a careful look
Use the pattern's hem allowance and finish. Remove pins and temporary markings, look over the seam ends and check inside the waistband. Before calling the pair finished, make sure it opens enough for dressing and that the length works for the intended wearer.
Keep a note of the pattern, size and any deliberate changes. A photograph of a step you found confusing can be useful next time, especially with the matching instructions beside it.
Our Dark Stripe Studio Pants began with pattern sampling. Art Club Red shows where that same shape can go with a different fabric. If you'd like company while making your first pair, join Little Pants Club at our San Francisco studio. Our first sewing class guide explains the evening and how choosing a size and fabric works.
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